Why Compost?

>> Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Apart from the lovely virtuous warm fuzzy feeling you get....

Reasons to compost and vermicompost (in no particular order)
To dispose of waste at source so as to save the planet- landfill, waste transport and save money on bin charges
Save yourself from having a smelly bin (trashcan)

Conserve wildlife and the environment- by using less or no chemicals in your garden, and by preventing landfill and incineration of your waste
Conserve water compost rich soil holds onto water and plant nutrients better than chemically fertilized soil.

To make compost or vermicompost for your garden- which:
saves you money
helps you garden organically
makes your soil healthier- and thus makes your plants healthier, less prone to disease and pests, and in the case of edibles- taste better
makes better use of the nutrients in your soil and adds to them both by the micronutrients in the compost, and by enhanced nitrogen fixation
Makes your soil more friable and crumbly

microorganisms (principally fungi) make lawns less vulnerable to drought and wear and tear of heavy traffic.


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Wandering Worms

>> Tuesday, February 23, 2010

When your new worms arrive,and you put them into your bin, the hope is that they'll stay put and get to work straight away. But unless the worms are moving back into more or less exactly the same conditions they move from- their tendency will be to explore. So how do you avoid getting up in the morning and stepping on your new pets?

The first and most obvious precaution is a worm-proof container. Most commercially sold wormeries are fairly secure and escapees will be kept to a minimum. But even they will need ventilation holes and worms can squeeze through the smallest spaces. With home made containers you may decide to cover ventilation holes with some kind of breathable screen- fine insect screen mesh works, or a piece of nylon from tights. Be careful that any glue you use to keep the screen in place is not giving off any fumes when you add your worms.
A light kept on over your worm farm for the first few nights should stop them leaving home as worms are light sensitive and find light uncomfortable. Some worm growers leave lights on permanently as then they don't need lids on their containers and can farm their worms in shallow, undrained trays which will not run out of air.
You can also place a new worm farm in a large plastic bag loosely tied at the top. Then if the worms wander, take out the worm bin, give the bag a gentle shake, and they'll fall into the bottom of the bag.
A sheet of damp cardboard on the ground near the worm bin will attract worms and you may find them asleep under it the next day.
A layer of dry bedding without food in it - (eg shredded cardboard or paper, coir or sawdust) over the top of your working layer will discourage worms from moving up. In time this bedding will moisten, and be consumed as part of the composting, but can be easily be replaced.

Worms in the leachate collection tray
With tray wormeries, owners often find that worms move down into the drip tray or sump where the leachate collects. If there's no way for them to climb back up they can drown in the tray and if you've ever smelled drowned, rotting, worms, it's not something you'll forget in a hurry. The best way to prevent this is a layer of breathable synthetic fabric close just below the lowest working layer, and above the drainage tray. Or a supply of dry bedding in the sump layer will moisten and provide somewhere safe for the worms to hang out until you rescue them. If you choose this option- check the sump layer often, and make sure that you provide enough bedding so that it doesn't become too soaked in leachate and go anaerobic.

But the best precaution against wandering worms is to make sure you provide them with conditions that will make them want to stay:
Good, safe bedding of pH around 7 or slightly over.
Moisture
Air
Food
Darkness

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Photos of some of my bins and worm habitats

>> Monday, February 22, 2010


You can just about see in the bottom of this bin that there is a grating about 30cm from the ground which allows air to circulate and rise through the bin. In theory I should be able to harvest compost through the grating but I will have to devise some sort of breaker bar to make the compost fall through. This bin is about 1.2mx1.2m square, and in theory, if it was ay a maximum worm population, it could process over 2 tonnes of material per year!!


The bottom of the big wood composter



A small worm bin made for my daughter's classroom.
There was a tight-fitting lid, with nylon covering the ventilation holes,
and the material never
got more than about 10 cms deep.



A Large Flow Through made from an old compost container


The bars as seen from the inside of the flow through vermicomposter. The compost sits on these bars, with a few sheets of newspaaper to hold it in place until it compact sufficiently.



























Click on any picture to enlarge


More to come... watch this space

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Batch vermicomposting update.

Because I had some excess waste building up I started a batch compost bin last month. Today I checked on the contents...

The contents are nearly fully processed, as can be seen from the photo below:




Plenty of mature worms,babies loads of potworms...and the odd cocoon.


There is very little food left in the bin,and the horse manure and cardboard are hardly recognisable either. I'm actually surprised so much food (it was probably a few kilos on top of horse manure and cardboard) was processed in such a short time in the temperatures we've been having in Ireland at the moment. Although the bin was in the garage, the temperatures are in low single figures (celcius). There's still some food left, so I won't do anything with the bin for another few days, then remove the worms and leave the castings for any cocoons to hatch out. With spring on its way in the garden, I can make use of all the castings I can get hold of!

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New definitions page

>> Tuesday, February 2, 2010

I've added a static page of definitions or information that may be of interest to readers who are starting out in vermicomposting or browsing other forums and not sure what the various terms mean. If there's anything you'd like to see covered let me know by adding a comment to any post.
Just click on the link above to access the definitions page.

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Chitika

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